Based in NJ, making Benarasi sarees for Bollywood stars

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Sarees are a quintessential part of South Asian culture, with hundreds of designs, fabrics, and draping techniques. Among these, many believe that Benarasi sarees hold a superior status.

New Jersey resident and designer Mitan Ghosh has been specializing in the art of Benarasi sarees for decades. Her journey is a conversation between two countries, cultures, and the heritage that bridges them.

Growing up near Varanasi, as Benaras is now known, in India’s Uttar Pradesh province, Ghosh was raised alongside the heart of Benarasi saree production. Visits to local weavers and exposure to the skill of Indian handlooms led her to pursue textile design and craftsmanship at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Chennai. 

“I was the first in my family to pursue fashion,” Ghosh said, “because I had a vision to preserve and promote the heritage craftsmanship of Benarasi weavers.”

Combining her academic training and love of traditional artistry, Ghosh went on to work at a prestigious boutique in Mumbai that specialized in Benarasi sarees. It was here she interacted with celebrity clients, including Kareena Kapoor, Nandita Das, and Pheroza Godrej. Their appreciation for her designs boosted Ghosh’s confidence in creating her brand, Mitan Ghosh Designs.

Benarasi sarees have roots in the Mughal era of the 14th century when skilled artisans migrated from Gujarat to Varanasi. With Mughal emperors as their patrons, the artisans developed floral motifs and patterns inspired by Mughal art. Among these included accenting fabric with zari, a brocade of silver or gold threads woven into the garment to create shimmering designs.

Traditionally, these sarees are made with silk and a handloom, with the labor for one garment taking anywhere from 15 days to a month, depending on the intricacy of the design. 

Today, this traditional art is at risk. Machine looms are much faster, and many people are buying cheaper synthetic fabrics from retailers in China.

Ghosh and other designers are fighting this trend and supporting the livelihoods of traditional artisans so that the heritage of this craft can be preserved in our industrialized world.

Preserving the Benarasi saree

In 2009, Benarasi artisans received a geographic indication (GI) tag, which globally recognizes products for a status of quality associated with a specific region. This makes it illegal for sarees made outside of the region to claim they are Benarasi.

Ghosh produces her sarees in the region, even though she lives in New Jersey. Operating between two countries requires meticulous planning, communication, and trust in her team. 

Ghosh credits technology for making things easier.

“It allows me to bridge two worlds: India, where the rich craftsmanship of my designs originate, and the global market to help me understand the tastes and preferences of an international clientele,” she said.

Through her online store and flagship store in Kolkata, Ghosh has dressed people worldwide. While a majority of her clients are brides, she is intentional in her approach towards empowering everyone through fashion. 

One example is her marketing and photo shoots. Featured models are both young and old, with different body types and genders, all adorned in her luxurious designs.

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“Fashion, especially traditional garments like Benarasi sarees, should be for everyone, regardless of gender,” Ghosh said. “It’s a form of self-expression, and everyone deserves the freedom to wear what makes them feel confident and beautiful.”

Younger generations are taking a fresh interest in handcrafted pieces as they become more mindful about the products they buy. In 2023, the global handicrafts market was valued at $787 billion, with expectations to far exceed that by 2032. 

Consumers want pieces that tell a story, whether celebrating their heritage through fashion or supporting traditional artisans. Look no further than the success of brands like No Borders and Rastah, which, like Ghosh, focus on craftsmanship to connect with heritage. 

Ghosh intentionally doesn’t have a store in New Jersey. She has built a name for herself as a designer in India and prefers that. Rest assured, her online shop ships internationally.

“Earning the title of designer carries more weight since it means my work has credibility,” Ghosh said. “This title gives me reach and allows me to work with specific clientele, including stars in Bollywood.”

A highlight of her career is working with Madhuri Dixit, who wore her majestic purple Iris saree in a 2023 PNG Jewellers commercial.

Ghosh was featured in Harper’s Bazaar last year and has created unique designs that went viral in the Indian press. These include Minaar, a woven katan silk saree with a coffee red color adorned with architectural motifs, and Gauhar, a verdant design with gold and silver scalloped borders, something few people were doing in 2021.

Ghosh’s designs honor the legacy of Benarasi artistry in a way that resonates with a contemporary audience. 

“I want my creations to reflect a unique heritage while empowering you to embrace your individuality and aspirations,” she said.

Ifrah Akhtar is a freelance contributor to Central Desi.

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